Thursday, 10 December 2009

Chateau Cheval Blanc

Recently I was fortunate enough to fly in a helicopter over Saint Emilion. We hovered over the village and then went to explore various Chateaux. This picture is the fabulous Premier Grand Cru Classe Chateau Cheval Blanc. It is an un assuming Chateau, but it produces some of the finest wines of the World. It is interesting the sight from the air, where we could see the earth and the patchwork of exploratory works in the replanted vineyard.
One of the best wines that I have ever tasted was the Chateau Cheval Blanc 1983. I enjoyed this wine at the Jockey Club in Newmarket, whilst celebrating my 30th birthday (10 years ago). I remember the wine. My wife organised a surprise birthday party so I was surrounded by friends and family and enjoying very fine wines. What a treat. And the memories of the wine and the fabulous evening are still vivid 10 years later.

Wednesday, 2 December 2009

Gary Vaynerchuk

Gary Vaynerchuk is an interesting character who has embraced social media and the internet in order to communicate about wine.
It is well worth having a look at his recent presentation at the Wine Future conference in Rioja. It is a 25 minute talk (without notes) but shows an insight to this modern style of wine communication. Click on the link here.

Thursday, 12 November 2009

Bordeaux Wine Tourism




This is great news for Bordeaux wine tourism. A €55 million investment in wine tourism.
Serious investment in such a beautiful city that has been a Unesco World Heritage city for the last couple of years.
Every time I go to Bordeaux there seems to be an improvement. The recent opening of the 5 star Regent Grand Hotel right in the centre is very positive. Although they really must do something about the lighting. They are either using re usable (and dim) light bulbs or they are happy to have a brothel ambience.
The tram way seems to function very well after we all suffered a few years of near gridlock with the traffic in the centre, whilst the work was being done.
The Theatre always looks stunning, the wine bars, restaurants and wine shops are all vibrant and fun.
The strip of land on the old Quai de Chartrons(where the old merchant ships loaded the wine in barrels)has now been revitalised to having concerts and events and the wonderful water features along the waterfront and around the Bourse are fantastic.
A truly fantastic city, with an amazing history and a modern vtality.

Australian Wines...Andrew Jefford lecture.

Here are the words from a fascinating presentation by the UK journalist Andrew Jefford. The lecture took place two days ago in Australia.
The interesting points are the challenges facing the Australian wine industry........also the fact that the Australians refer to their grape growing and winemaking as an industry! No wonder people don't like 'industrial' wines.
There are many interesting and relevant points from Andrew's lecture.
The positives are undoubtedly the diversity of Australian wines and also the potential. Also the relative youthfulness of Australian wines within the global market place...they have come a long way in the last 30 years.
The negative aspects are the perceived homogenous styles and also 'Brand Australia', which has lead to big wine companies dealing with big European supermarkets....and destroying the price on promotions.
Also the over adjustment of acidity and tannins has made the wines seem bland and 'made' rather than natural.
And the key and most current point is that the Australian economy is relatively healthy at the moment (certainly in comparison to others), and the exchange rate means that Australian wine is 25% more expensive in the UK than 12 months ago.
I would be amazed if these price promotions continue in supermarkets. They are un sustainable and do more damage to Australian wines than good.

Friday, 6 November 2009

Rainbow in Minervois

I would love to think that the crock of gold was at my house!!!

Thursday, 29 October 2009

Chateau Troplong Mondot




This is one of the slightly more bizarre named Chateau in Bordeaux. The property is in the tiny hamlet of Mondot just to the south east of the village of Saint Emilion. The vineyards belonged to the Abbe Raymond de Seze in the 17th Century and the size of the vineyard area (33 hectares) has not greatly changed in the last 300 years. Raymond Troplong,owned the Chateau from 1850 and his nephew and succesor at the Chateau Edouard Troplong added the name Troplong to the estate before he sold it.
The Valette family bought the estate in 1936. Alexandre Valette was a Parisian wine merchant who already owned Chateau La France in Fronsac and he later bought Chateau Pavie very close by in Saint Emilion.
The most notable point is that the vineyards are the highest vines of the Saint Emilion area (over 100 metres above sea level)...there is a large water tower next to the Chateau(hidden by the trees in the pic) which is a bit of a landmark. Also the size of the property is significant when many of the Right Bank Chateaux are less than 10 hectares.
The Chateau is currently operated by the delightful Christine Valette and her husband Xavier Pariente.
I wanted to visit the Chateau as the wines have recently been elevated from Grand Cru Classe to Premier Grand Cru Classe status in the controversial 2006 re classification of the Saint Emilion AOC system. Also the prices for Troplong Mondot wines have leapt upwards recently on the back of some extremely high Parker notes.
The impressive barrel store.

I was met by the elegant Stephanie Libreau who gave me a guided tour of the estate. The harvest was in full swing and the gypsies seemed to be all over the place. I noticed some of these grapes ready to be sorted. You can see the slight damage and inconsistency of ripening in these tubs in the picture below. These are actually grapes from a block of vines that was effected by a hailstorm during the early summer. The estate was very lucky as only 20% of the grapes were effected. Essentially a cold funnel of air rose up from the river Dordogne and dropped some large hail stones mainly on the neigbouring property. Hail is a nightmare for a vigneron, but it can be very isolated.
Some slightly iffy grapes.
The resultant wine from these grapes will not go in to the main Chateau wine, but their second label which is called Mondot. The normal production is 60-90,000 bottles of the 1st wine and 10-30,000 bottles of the 2nd wine.
The 33 hectares are planted mainly with Merlot (90%) with Cabernet Franc (5%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).
After a tour of the vines and the winery I tasted the following:

Chateau Troplong Mondot 2007, Premier Grand Cru Classe Saint Emilion
Excellent dark concentration of deep spicy autumn fruits. A note of dark chocolate and mocha intensity. Very tight and ripe tannins with an elegant finish. A good wine for the 2007 vintage.

Mondot 2004
This was a slightly hollow and aggressive style. The Cabernet character and harshness did not seem to be nearly as harmonious as the main wine. It was robust drinking!

I was then invited to lunch with Christine Valette and Xavier Pariente. It was a great fun harvest lunch with the many gypsy families who pick the grapes. It was a fun and informal lunch and we opened a couple of interesting wines:

Chateau Troplong Mondot 2001, Grand Cru Classe Saint Emilion
Again a very concentrated rich style. Not showing massive ageing at the rim. Power packed and silky smooth tannin/fruit balance.

Chateau Troplong Mondot 1995, Grand Cru Classe Saint Emilion
Showing major development in colour and very mature meaty secondary fruit aromas. Less powerful than the 2007 or 2001 in alcohol and punch. Tannins smooth but not in the same league as the other two.

Overall it was a fascinating visit and enhanced by Madame Valette's hospitailty to invite me to lunch!
The more recent wines were excellent. They certainly have the 'stamp' of their consultant winemaker Michel Rolland. Powerful, full on wines with quite high alcohols but very smooth tannins. Certainly a Chateau to follow.

Monday, 5 October 2009

Bordeaux 2009

It looks like the Bordeaux grape harvest for the 2009 vintage could be rather special. This follows a good 2008 harvest and an exceptional 2005.
This information from the CIVB gives general background detail for the 2009 weather pattern and the sunshine, temperature and rainfall. The only anomaly seems to be the lack of rain compared to previous years.
I know that there is a high level of optimism in Bordeaux at the moment where the harvest is in full flow. I will be back in St.Emilion this Wednesday and Thursday.